Checking your gauge (also known as ‘tension’) is a very important first step before embarking on a new project. Take my word for it, it’s worth every minute it takes to knit or crochet a gauge swatch!
How to check your gauge
This tutorial applies to both knitting and crochet. See? We can all get along!
The gauge for the Mystery Afghans is:
Knit: 18 stitches (sts) & 24 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in stocking stitch.
Crochet: 12 double crochet (dc) & 7 rows = 4″ [10 cm].
Making a knitted gauge swatch
Using the yarn and needles recommended in the pattern, cast on enough stitches to create a swatch (or piece of fabric) at least 4″ [10 cm] wide. Why 4 inches? Most patterns, as well as yarn ball bands state a gauge measured over 4″ [10cm]. A larger swatch will be more accurate, but use your own discretion. Sometimes the gauge will be listed for only one inch, and in those cases making a 4 inch swatch is still advisable. Just multiply the number of stitches per inch by 4 to determine your cast-on number and you’ll be ready to go!
It’s a good idea to knit your swatches with a garter stitch border to prevent curling and to make it easier to measure. Adding a border will mean adding a few more stitches to your cast on. Here’s the break-down of making a swatch for our Knit-Along Mystery Afghan:
We will want to cast on at least 18 sts for our knitted swatch. To create a border we’ll need to add a few stitches. Because we want to have 3 sts of garter stitch bordering the swatch on either side, we’ll add 6 sts.
3 sts garter st + 18 sts stocking st + 3 sts garter st = 24 stitches to cast on.
Here’s the “pattern” for the knitted gauge swatch:
Knit Pattern
Cast on 24 sts.
Knit 4 rows.
Continue as follows:
1st row: (WS). K3. P18. K3.
2nd row: Knit.
Rep these 2 rows for 4” [10 cm].
Knit 4 rows. Cast off.
Making a crocheted gauge swatch
Using the yarn and hook recommended in the pattern, chain enough stitches to create a swatch (or piece of fabric) at least 4 in (10 cm) wide. Why 4 inches? Most patterns, as well as yarn ball bands state a gauge measured over 4 in (10 cm). A larger swatch will be more accurate, but use your own discretion. Sometimes the gauge will be listed for only one inch, and in those cases making a 4 inch swatch is still advisable. Just multiply the number of stitches per inch by 4 to determine the number of stitches over 4 inches. For our sample swatch pattern, we will add one stitch to each side of the swatch.
14 stitches needed to make 12 dc + 2 extra edge stitches
Here’s the “pattern” for the gauge swatch for the Crochet-Along Mystery Afghan:
Crochet Pattern
Ch 16.
1st row: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (missed ch 3 counts as 1 dc). 1 dc in each ch to end of chain. Turn. 14 dc.
2nd row: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each dc to end of row. Turn.
Rep last row until work measures approx 4” [10 cm].
Fasten off.
Measuring your gauge swatch
Now that we have a nice little sample, we need to measure it. Lay your swatch down flat (on something solid – your couch won’t do!) and go get yourself a ruler.
Place your ruler horizontally across one row being careful not to stretch or distort your swatch. Now start counting! Some people count stitches within 2″ [5 cm], though counting over 4″ [10 cm] will be more accurate. Try to count your stitches in a few different spots, perhaps turning your work upside down to make sure you get an over-all average. The number of stitches you count over 4″ is your “personal” gauge or tension.
Knit

In this image, there are 12 stitches (stocking stitch) over 4 inches
Crochet

In this image, there are 12 stitches (single crochet) over 4 inches
Now count your stitches vertically to find your row gauge.
Knit

In this image, there are 13 rows over 4 inches
Crochet

In this image, there are 13 rows over 4 inches
So what happens if you don’t get exactly 18 sts and 24 rows (or 12 double crochet and 7 rows)? If you get more stitches than the suggested gauge, your finished project will end up smaller than it should be and the fabric you produce will be denser than it should be and you may require more yarn than stated. If you get less stitches than the suggested gauge, your finished project will end up larger than it should be and the fabric you produce will be looser than it should be. Even a variation of half a stitch makes an obvious difference in the finished size. What to do?
If you’re getting too many stitches, go up a needle or hook size. Let’s say you count 20 sts on your 5 mm needles. Try making another swatch using 5.5 mm needles/hook and count again. If you’re getting too few stitches (say, 16 sts), go down a needle or hook size. Keep changing needle or hook sizes until you get that magic number!
What about row gauge? In most cases, matching the row gauge of a pattern isn’t deathly important. If you get your stitch gauge, chances are your row gauge is pretty darn close, so don’t sweat it!
This is just one method for testing gauge. Do you have your own tip or trick for checking gauge? Let us know in the comments!
Thanks so much for this tutorial. Am one of those people who sometimes have to actually see something to understand it. Now I finally understand how a gauge works! In all the years I have crocheted, and sometimes knitted, I’ve never bothered using a gauge. My finished projects have always looked nice, just lucky I guess!
The instructions here are helpful and I loved getting my Waverly yarn today. Unfortunately the gauge guide on the Waverly yarn label can only be deciphered if you have eagle eyes or a patient and supportive spouse with a magnifying glass! C’ome on, BERNAT…separate the laundry instruction icons from the gauge notations and enlarge the printfont to accommodate tired eyes! What is the main customer demographic? Think about it!
Thanks for your feedback. There is a lot of information we need to include on yarn labels, and often in multiple languages. There is always a balancing act between keeping things looking good and making sure everything is legible. If you ever need information on the yarn you can also find it on the bernat.com website.
I’ve been crocheting and machine knitting for years. I’m one of those people who doesn’t like to do a swatch, I just think it’s a waste of yarn and I hate to waste materials. Even when I have done a swatch I can never get the correct gauge so why bother. So far my projects have all come out looking pretty good. This was a good gauge tutorial, looking forward to doing the Mystery Afghan.
I never bind off my swatches, I just pull them off the needles and measure. Then, when I know I’ve got gauge, I unravel it and wrap it back around the skein.
Thanks for mentioning this tip, common sense really but I didn’t think of it! Now I won’t feel wasteful.
I have never knitted or crocheted a gauge swatch for afghans or pillows, but find that a swatch is necessary for sweaters or anything fitted. Thank you for this tutorial, it certainly is well explained and I will endeavour to do more gauge swatches in the future.
Thanks! I’ve been struggling with my gauge when making beanies for adult men. They fit great for young men and boys but not so great for my big guys. I’m going to practice my gauge before I begin another project. Wish me luck.
Thank you so much, I got the number of stitches correct but was off on the rows and worried how to fix it. Your explanation and pictures were perfect.
I am one of those people that never make a gauge and my projects have always come out right. The only time it did not was when I was making a praying hands runner. It came out way too small.(That was not made with yarn) But I am glad that someone actually took the time to explain it and why. Thank you.
HELP! I’ve made 3 swatches starting with size 7 needles. The last swatch with size 5 needles still isn’t getting the required gauge. Obviously the finished piece is getting really tight and doesn’t lay very well. If I go down to size 4 it isn’t going to look right at all. Any suggestions? Anyone else having this problem?
I’m having the same problem with the knit gauge swatch. I had to go down to size 6 (4mm) needles, and I can’t imagine that’s really how the end product is supposed to feel! it’s so dense! I’m going to do it again with needles made of a different material (acrylic instead of aluminum) to see if that changes it. I’ll let you know!
I’d recommend going with the needle size that provides the most appealing fabric, though your final blanket size will probably be affected.
I,also am not a gauge person but seeing your explanation I now understand why it’s so important to do the gauge first.I’m going to do my gauge for this cal/kal because I’m really looking forward to starting my afghan as soon as the first clue starts.Thank-you.
Just ordered you yarn. boy it was hard to pick colors they’re all so nice. Can’t wait….
Do I have to knit a gauge swatch each week or just the one in the tutorial? How many weeks for the MYSTERY KAL ?
Just just need to do the one gauge swatch.
the mystery KAL will go about 8 weeks, but we’ll continue chatting and showing off our finished blankets afterwards!
What size needles for the KAL guage swatch? Can I do it now?
Yep, you can do your gauge swatch right away. You’ll want to use 5mm (U.S.
knitting needles to start.
When you use the same yarn as usually you can make 2 or 3 on that yarn, write it down how many st and rows to get to 10 by 10 cm, and write that on the back of the wrapping. Stuff the wrapping in your yarn. So per sort of yarn you just need that. And compare if you do need bigger or smaller.
Just went to Hobby Lobby and got yarn after looking up the store in my area. I just need to feel and touch to know what color I need.
I always have trouble with gauge and really appreciated your tutorial, but if the pattern calls for 7 rows=4″ and you ended up with 13 rows=4″, how do you make the pattern come out right? Will it be done by say “color A for so may inches and the color B for so many inches? Because if it is say 4″ that would have to be 13 rows, not 7. I hope this was clear, and I always have trouble with the o gauge, it never works out right. Thank you for your help.
what size crochet hook do we use for the swatch for the Mystery afghan?
You’ll want to use a 5mm crochet hook to start.
A 5mm to “start”? Does this mean we’ll be changing hook size at some point in the CAL? Just asking because I don’t have very many hooks and would like to know ahead if I have to purchase another size.
You only need one hook size for the afghan. But in the process of checking your gauge, you may find that you can get gauge more easily by going up or down a size. If so, you’ll be using a different size hook instead.
Thank you for the easy to understand instructions. BTW my number of stiches is perfect but my rows are off, I’m not going to worry about it and now I’ve just got to try and be patient until next week to start!