Let the games begin!
Each clue is being released as a PDF – these are easy to download and print. To open them you’ll need Adobe Reader, which you can download here.
CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE PDF FILE OF CLUE #1
Don’t forget, each “clue” is the pattern for one block of our afghan, but you knit each clue knit three times – one in each of the three colors you have chosen.
Next time we’ll show you what the finished block looks like for this clue – you’ll get to see it develop on your own.
Now, before we all race to cast on, have you all checked your gauge? Checking your gauge is a very important first step before embarking on a new knitting project. Take my word for it, it’s worth every minute it takes to knit a gauge swatch! Don’t you want your afghan to be perfect?
HOW TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE
Using the yarn and needles recommended in the pattern, cast on enough stitches to create a piece of knitting at least 4 in (10 cm) wide. Why 4 inches? Most patterns, as well as yarn ball bands state a gauge measured over 4 in (10cm). A larger swatch will be more accurate, but use your own discretion.
I like to knit my swatches with a garter stitch border to prevent curling and make it easier to measure. Adding a border will mean adding a few more stitches to your cast on. Here’s the break-down of making a swatch for our Knit-along afghan:
Pattern gauge is:
18 stitches (sts) & 24 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in stocking stitch.
We will want to cast on at least 18 sts for our swatch. To create a border we’ll need to add a few stitches. I want to have 3 sts of garter stitch bordering my swatch on either side, so I’ll add 6 sts.
3 sts garter st + 18 sts stocking st + 3 sts garter st = 24 stitches to cast on.
Here’s my “pattern” for our gauge swatch:
Cast on 24 sts.
Knit 4 rows.
Continue as follows:
1st Row: (WS) K3. P18. K3.
2nd Row: Knit.
Rep these 2 rows for 4 in [10cm].
Knit 4 rows.Cast off.
Now that we have a nice little sample of our knitting, we need to measure it. Lay your swatch down flat (on something solid – your couch won’t do!) and go get yourself a ruler.
In this image, there are 12 stitches over 4 inches
Place your ruler horizontally across one row being careful not to stretch or distort your knitting. Now start countin’! Some people count stitches within 2 inches (5 cm), though counting over 4 inches (10 cm) will be more accurate. Try to count your stitches in a few different spots, perhaps turning your work upside down to make sure you get an over-all average. The number of stitches you count over four inches is your “personal” gauge or tension. (Need I mention you need to double the number you get if you count over two inches?)
Now count your stitches vertically to find your row gauge.
In this image, there are 13 rows over 4 inches
So what happens if you don’t get exactly 18 sts and 24 rows? If you get more stitches than the suggested gauge, your finished project will end up smaller than it should be and the fabric you produce will be denser than it should be. If you get less stitches than the suggested gauge, your finished project will end up larger than it should be and the fabric you produce will be looser than it should be. Even a variation of half a stitch makes an obvious difference in the finished size. So what’s a knitter to do?
If you’re getting too many stitches, go up a needle size. Let’s say you count 20 sts on your 5mm needles. Try knitting another swatch using 5.5 mm needles and count again. If you’re getting too few stitches (say, 16 sts), go down a needle size. Keep changing needle sizes until you get that magic number!
What about row gauge? In most cases, matching the row gauge of a pattern isn’t deathly important. If you get your stitch gauge, chances are your row gauge is pretty darn close, so don’t sweat it!
This is just my own personal method for testing gauge. I don’t claim it to be perfect and I’m always looking to improve! Do you have your own tip or trick for checking gauge? Let us know in the comments!
Happy Knitting!
Julia
I’m excited to start!
Yeah- cant wait- never done a knit along before :O)
Hope its as fun as it reads!! Thanks!
Amanda Olson
I’ve got my wool and I’m ready….I have trouble with sizing so I must check my gauge first.
I’m going to get my yarn tonight. I’m totally psyched!!!
Good luck, everyone!
I’m using the bernat satin solids- banana, flamingo, and soft fern to match my niece’s bedroom decor.
I want to start today, but I’m having trouble with the PDF. When I click the link I get an IE error telling me the window must close. I’m going to try another browser and see if that’s better.
In order to download the PDF, you’ll need to download Adobe Reader. It’s completely free, and you can download it here: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
If you are having troubles opening it, that might be your issue.
Got my yarn, got my needles and ready to go. So I eagerly log on this morning to get the clue and what do I see? Instructions for knitting a swatch! Puh-leeze. I’ve been knitting for more years than I care to admit. I know about swatches and I bet most of your knitters do as well. Now it’s two more weeks for a clue. What will that be? How to cast on? Forget it; I’ll find my own pattern.
Hi Shay -
In addition to the instructions for the swatch, at the top of the post there is a link to the download for the clue. The swatch isn’t the clue, but the clue is there.
Click the part of the post on the top that says ” CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE PDF FILE OF CLUE #1 ”
We also included a gauge swatch tutorial as some members of the KAL requested it.
Happy Knitting!
I think I’ve got it!!!!!!
I’ll have to wait until Sunday to start though. I still need to find the rest of the yarn. I have prepared a raid to my mother’s stash since she has too many and never really uses it. Though I think I’ll go the old fashio way and buy some today or tomorrow. Though, I’ll have to do it in batches since I don’t think I can afford to buy all ten skeins at once. I’ve been thinking on how to do it but I can’t figure anything out yet. Too bad I can’t get Bernat yarns over here, but I’ll see what I can do.
Hurray! Logged on this morning and the first clue is posted. Got a real bargain on the yarn – bogo. Hubby wants to know why I need another afghan? – why not??? You can never have too many, lol.
Tell hubby with more afghans he can set the thermostat lower and save money because the afghan will keep you all warm. It’s really money saving to buy more yarn!
Thanks Pepper, that’ll work for sure. He’s a real heat miser.
I guess I’m just an eager beaver – I already have the first 20 rows done. It’s very pretty in the satin yarn – I love the sheen! I started with silk, my other colours are lapis and spring.
One small request: In future, is it possible to put the verbal instructions and the chart on separate pages? I really love to see the pattern emerge as I knit, but the chart “spoiled” it for me, as I could see at a glance what it was going to look like.
I agree, I was excited for the “mystery” of the pattern but was kind of disappointed to see the chart because then I knew exactly what it was going to look like and it was just like seeing an example. This is really fun though either way.
Hi Aminca -
This is a great suggestion, and we’ll be doing this starting with Clue #2
The written directions will be on one page, and the chart on a second page.
Thank you!
I actually am so ready to start that I checked the website for the clue about 12:30 this morning! It wasn’t there, yet.
I am teaching myself to knit, and I appreciate the lesson on gauge. I am glad to know that it measures the same way in crochet. (I teach classes on crochet.) Let’s see if I can do this!
Um. . . Did I mention that I am teaching myself to knit? What is the recommended cast on method for this project? My book details MANY cast ons. I like the long-tail method best, but do I have to count the cast on as the first row? Should I use the loop cast on or the knitted cast on instead? (Or one of the many other cast ons?)
HELP!
Hi Donna -
You’re correct, there are many ways you can cast on. Most variations in cast on method are good for different types of edges, for things that stretch vs. things that don’t, etc.
For this project, the method of cast-on isn’t crucial to the final product – I’d say any cast-on you’re comfortable with is fine. Both the knitted cast-on and the long tail cast-on will work great.
Does anybody else have a fave cast-on to recommend?
Thank you – that helps a lot. Do you count the cast on as the first row if you use the long-tail method?
Yes, the row after the cast on is Row 1.
I used the double or long tail cast on method but did NOT count it as a first row. I’ve already finished one block and the pattern is very easy to follow so far.
I can not get the first pattern instructions for the new kal.
What should I do?
thanks
Marion
Hi Marion (and any others who might be having trouble downloading the pattern),
In order to download the pattern, you’ll need to have Adobe Reader installed – it’s free and you can download it here:
http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
If you have Adobe Reader installed and are still having trouble opening the pdf, I’d recommend uninstalling and reinstalling (particularly if you have an older version).
If you’re unable to get the pdf to open after all that, send an email to knitalong@bernat.com and we can work with you to fix it or send you a text version of the pattern (though you won’t have the chart to work off of).
Hope this helps!
I’m very excited to get started. i wish i would of brought my needles with me to work. i could of started during my lunch. oh well….hindsight. i am also very new to knitting, I’ve only made a few scarves but am so excited about learning some new techniques. knit and purl i can do, never followed a chart before tho. good luck everyone!!
If I were you, I would forget the chart. The written instructions are much easier to follow. Just keep a stroke record of what row you’re on.
Donna, I’ll go you one better…I logged on at 12:01Am and kept refreshing for the next 15 minutes, hoping the first clue would magically appear! First thing this morning I downloaded and actually swatched, something I rarely do. I know I knit a bit on the loose side and my swatch showed me that I’ll have to go down one needle size, as I wound up with 16 1/2 stiches instead of 18. I’m so psyched about this project, I’m going to skip swatch #2 and get right to it!
I’m glad I’m not the only one really anxious to start! I have been crocheting (self-taught) for almost 40 years, and have finally decided to try knitting in earnest. Knitting has always seemed to me to be much more difficult than crochet. (In crochet, if you drop a stitch, you simply re-do it. There is no weaving it up several rows.)
Recently, a friend gave me a knitted pillow kit. I think she meant it as a joke, but I decided to tackle it. The dvd that came with it is ok for learning basic knit and purl, but changing colors is not even mentioned. So, of course, I bought some knitting books.
Timing is everything. I no sooner got the books when the KAL was announced! God loves me!
I didn’t bother to make a swatch. As in crochet, gauge is not as important in an afghan as in a garment. I didn’t want to hinder my stitch learning with worries about gauge.
So far, the most difficult thing I have encountered (after casting on) is trying to keep my cat from swatting the needles out of my hand.
And that’s why I really enjoy using circular needles…I use Denise almost exclusively when knitting with sizes 5-15. My 3 cats totally ignore me unless I’m using straight needles and the ends are flapping around, taunting them!
I’m a new knitter, so I appreciate the instructions for swatching. I’ve never made a swatch before, as I’ve just “played around” with my knitting needles learning knit and purl and casting on. Plus, I’m happy there are a couple of weeks between clues. Being new, I will not be a fast knitter, so I feel comfortable that I can keep up or at least not be too far behind.
Hi Swanee
I’m so glad we could help you with your swatch!
Julia.
Update- I had Adobe Reader installed but I was receiving errors from my browser when trying to get to the clue.
I updated Adobe, uninstalled and reinstalled it. I’ve received the clue from another means for now, and I hope I can get my Adobe Reader problem fixed before Clue 2 comes out.
I can’t wait to start knitting in a little while. I’m excited!
These first few blocks will go quickly for me, so I do wish the clues came out weekly, however when we get to more complex things that I haven’t done yet I will be glad to have the extra time between clues. I had hoped to be able to gift this item for Christmas, but the timing will be acceptable for a spring surprise “just because” sort of gift for my toddler niece.
Think I need to put down the baby blanket I’m working on and start this because I’m so excited.
OK, who is going to really swatch for an afghan. If you are I bow to you, but I love afghans and baby blankets because I’m awful at getting guage! I’m a loose knitter so I always go down a needle size and love things where size doesn’t matter!
Can someone clarify something for me before I go too far and have to pull it out and start again. LOL. It’s been a long time since I have knit anything as crocheting is faster.
On Row 2 where it says K2. Knit all knit sts and purl all purl sts as they appear to the last 2 sts. K2.
Am I supposed to K2. P1. K1. P1. K1. P7. to follow the pattern or am I going to K3. P1. K1. P1. K7. to follow the pattern?
Hi Ashley -
The K2 on each side is building a garter stitch edging on the square.
In the specific case of Row 2, you’ll K3, P1, K1, P1, K7.. and so on.
to knit the knit stiches means that if you see the ‘V’ in front of you, do a knit stitch, if you see the ‘bump’, do a purl stitch.
Ashley–
I’ve always found that knit the knits and purl the purls instruction to be confusing as well. After all we just ‘knit’ a stitch on one side so if I’m supposed to knit the knits, shouldn’t I knit it on the other side as well?
The way the Bernat person described is much clearer.
And it’s funny that you don’t knit because you crochet faster. Vice versa for me. I am such a slow crocheter. I don’t have a feel for crochet patterns so I pretty much crawl along, squinting at the pattern then squinting at my yarn. And constantly looking up how to do something.
I made a little video about knitting the knits and purling the purls. I hope it helps!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fqq9eGU1-6g
When I clicked on the download it had problems, but I then right-clicked and selected ‘open link in new tab’ and voila it showed up in a new tab and I was able to save it to my desktop! Hope this helps someone else.
JanV (NStitches)
Now to get home and check my gauge! Yippee!
You’re the best Shandeh!
Hi,
I just want to know how long time I have to do the first clue before I receive the second???
Thanks
Hi Maoui,
You’ll have over a week to finish the first clue. Subsequent clues will come out every 2 weeks starting November 4th.
I’m done with the first square and have casted on for the second. I will have to find something else to do before the next clue!
Lynne, Would you like to finish the two knitting projects I already have in the works? I guess I will now have three – its good to have variety!
I can’t stand it when I have nothing to do! My stash is huge and I’ve been trying to unload it but it just keeps growing! Hubby never understands why I have to buy more. I’ve used the same colors that Bernat used. I have one more square to do and that will be done tomorrow. Have to look for something else!
I’ve not used patterns much before, and I am having trouble knowing if I’m on a RS or WS row. If I have a cast on row, then I start Row 1 is the one after that, how do I know what’s right side vs. wrong side (because I’m supposed to end each block on a wrong side row- which means complete a wrong side row, right?)– sorry, this just really confuses me and I want to do this correctly so it looks nice and want the blocks to come out evenly.
Tips/advice welcome! Thank you.
I was taught that when looking at your knitting if your yarn tail is to your right than the wrong side is facing you, if your yarn tail is to your left that the right side is facing you. Make sense?
Where your yarn tail is depends totally on how you did the cast-on.
For example, if you do long-tail cast-on, the first row (which is usually, but not always, the right side) will start right by the tail.
But, if you do cable cast-on, the tail is at the far end of the needle with the stitches when you start the first row.
Judy
I do it just the opposite. When the tail is on my right the right side is facing me. When it’s on my left I’m on a wrong side row. Isn’t it funny how many different ways there are to do the same stuff.
Just remember that the odd numbered rows are the right side, the even numbered rows are the wrong side. If you see in the instructions for row one, it has (RS) before the instruction for that row.
To mark the right side I usually loop a small piece of yarn around a stitch after completing the right side or use a plastic stitch marker. the clue tells you which side is the right side and then you don’t have to think about it. By marking the first right side row you can also determine which row you are knitting if you have lost track. hope this helps.
I couldn’t find Bernat Satin, but they had Bernat Satin Sport… I’m assuming this is close enough, yes?
Hi Angie -
Bernat Satin Sport is a different weight from Bernat Satin – it is significantly thinner.
I would not recommend using it as a substitute for Bernat Satin. If you do, you’ll want to use smaller needles, and will end up with a significantly smaller afghan. One option you might have is to follow each clue twice, making twice as many blocks – you would then probably have a decent size blanket.
Aaaacccckkkkk!!!!! I didn’t realize that there were two kinds of Satin. I bought the only one I knew about, and it turned out to be Sport.
So I trundled back to my neighbourhood Michaels tonight, and we found the non-Sport Satin – and it goes on sale tomorrow!
So I guess I’ll be back. And I’ll get to redo my square.
Sigh…..
I went to AC Moore and tried finding the Satin and all I could find was the baby yarns. Then I asked a lady who works there and she walked me right over to the Satin that was 2 aisles over. We both agreed all the yarn brands should be shelved togehter, but then we decided a man must have set up the shelving system. Anyway, I did find the Satin and already have 1 color completed.
Well, I’m done the first square. It went fairly fast, and it didn’t take too long before I had the pattern stitch figured out so I wouldn’t have to look at the pattern any more.
This pattern stitch sure does make the knitted fabric slant a bit – it was weird watching it develop.
I was puzzled by the fact that the gauge specified in this pattern doesn’t match the gauge on the Satin wrapper. But my square ended up 8″ square anyway.
And I’m one of those who doesn’t do a gauge swatch for an afghan!
But in the instructions, the square size is stated as 10″ x 8″. Mine was 10 in wide by 8 in long.
Judy, I too was a bit puzzled about the look of the pattern stitch…I didn’t expect it to be slanted. I’m not sure I really like the way it looks, but am continuing right along.
Hi Judy;
I totally understand not wanting to swatch for an afghan! I’d just like to clarify both the pattern gauge and ball band of Bernat Satin should be 18 sts and 24 rows. You aren’t using Bernat Satin SPORT, are you? As well, the blocks should measure 10 inches wide and 8 inches tall. I hope it all works out for you!
Julia.
Hi, Julia.
I am using Bernat Satin, not Bernat Satin Sport. I was comparing the two squares that I made, one with each type.
Judy
I’m done one block, and about 3/4 through the second. I seem to be naturally blessed with an ability to knit to gauge, so I tend not to do swatches unless it’s a really persnickety project. My blocks are coming out the correct size.
I did find that I lost track of what row I was on (probably due to my TV watching at the same time) and had to go back and figure it out based on the previous row, so I started making a tick on my pattern page after every wrong side row to keep track.
I’ll probably finish the 3 blocks tomorrow, so I’ll go back to the needlepoint Christmas stocking I’m making for my daughter until the next clue comes out.
I’m having problems with the 1st row: [P6.(K1.P1) twice]4 times.
What part is twice?
Is there supposed to be a K1. in ()’s after the P1?
On the chart it looks like there is.
Any help would be appreciated, thank you
Hi Christine -
In the part of the first row that says [P6.(K1.P1) twice]4 times, the part you do twice is K1.P1.
So, written out, this part would be P6.K1.P1.K1.P1.P6.K1.P1.K1.P1.P6… and so on
The same thing written another way would be P6.K1.P1.K1.P7.K1.P1.K1.P7… etc.
Hope this helps!
Wow this is why patterns confuse me and why I haven’t used them much before now! I do better for it just to say P6 K1 P1 (or whatever the stitches are in a row); I get confused easily by too many [] and (), so thank you for this clarification.
I started Friday but it wasn’t coming out right so after frogging 3 times, I had a break yesterday and will try once more today.
My block came out fine, but this is supposed to be a mystery afghan, so please don’t put the chart picture with that week’s instructions. Please put it in the following week. I would like my blocks to surprise me as I go along. Thanks.
Hi Joan;
We will be including the chart on a separate page from now on. I understand charts give away the appearance of the pattern, but a lot of knitters really prefer them so we don’t want to do away with them all together. I hope you can avert your eyes to the second page!
Julia.
got started last night but the grandkids came over and wanted a sleep over so I can’t get back to it till tonight…anxiously waiting….love my grand kids…
I love reading all these comments- answered some questions for me and excited to know that there’s a lot of people knitting what I’m knitting. I don’t know anyone where I live who knits, so it’s nice to have some comradery.
Do it matter which row you stop on for the square?
If you use the gauge listed, it would be 6 rows to the inch making it 48 rows for 8 inches. Do the pattern twice (40 rows) and then do the first 8 rows again.
Lynne — that’s what my block came out to be, too! 8″ was exactly 48 rows.
I finished my first block but unfortunately it turned out to be 8 inches long x 9 inches wide. Is this going to be a problem?
Hi Shelley;
It sounds like your gauge might be a little off. If the fabric you have knit looks quite dense I would go up a needle size and re-knit. If the fabric looks okay to you, you can always continue and just make sure each of your blocks end up 9 inches wide so they will fit together nicely. Of course, if you continue on with 9 inch blocks, your finished afghan will be a little smaller. I hope that helps!
Julia
I found that my first square was a little smaller also. It seams to be really stretchy though so I don’t think I’m worried about it. Funny but I actually DID a swatch for this project and the stitch count was spot on.
Could it be off a little because of the pattern?
Hi,
I pulled this up to print it and then had a problem where I had to close it and now I can’t pull up the pattern again to print……..what have I done wrong?
I am about 11 rows done on my first square. Loving it even though I have ripped it out and started over about 4 times. Please, please make sure you include the chart/graph with all the clues. I think maybe because I am more of a novice knitter I like to check to see if I am doing things right. I have actually been knitting off the graph and not from the directions. The graph/chart for the first clue was posted at the bottom and it looks like there maybe an actual cutting line marked on the pattern…..so for those of us beginners, please leave the chart and for those that don’t want to see it, can you cut off the bottom or ask someone else to before you look at the pattern? I’m afraid once the patterns get harder, others may need to check out the graph and I’m sure we don’t want to wait another two weeks to see the graph and then get behind.
Will there be a place to post pictures/gallery for when we are finished? I would love to see all of the finished pieces.
Thanks Bernat for making this a fun project. I told my friend in Florida what I was doing and she has joined also. Hi Connie!!!
I agree with Jill, I prefer to work from charts although I am an experienced knitter
Hi Jill -
We’ll make sure and include the charts with the clues going forward, though they’ll be on a second page of the file.
We’ll be showing images of the submitted afghans in the blog, so everyone can see how each others’ came out. I’m excited to see them too!
Oh thank you Jill, I thought I was the only one. As a novice knitter I am relying heavily on that chart.
Hi Sheila;
I’m not a computer expert, but perhaps it’s the browser you’re using? I usually use Firefox (which you can download for free) and when I click on the pattern link, the file automatically downloads to my computer. We will definitely make check to make sure the file works in all browsers. I hope you can work it out!
Julia.
i am so excited. starting this tonight finally. i love how soft this yarn is. i was going to give this as a christmas gift but thinking i might have to keep it. LOL.
OK, so I swatched (which I never do) just to reassure myself that I really do knit loosely and went down one needle size. Now that I’ve measured my first piece, I find it’s only 8 1/2 inches wide not 10. It’s for my g’daughter so it’s not so bad that it’ll be slightly undersized. I’m also going to make one for her parents and I’ll be using #8 neeedles. I’d rather have it a bit on the larger size…
Well, I finished the first piece. I am usually a loose knitter and I hate making a swatch so I went down one needle size. Unfortunately it ended up only 8 inches wide – I can stretch it to 9 but not to 10. I am going to go back to the right needle size for the other two and then I will decide if I am going to bother redoing this one.
Hi Donna;
Aw, that’s too bad! I find I’m usually loose too, but the yarn and needles I’m using effect my gauge too. I’m a slave to the swatch! I hope it all works out okay for you!
Julia.
This is my first KAL and I am really excited. I have knitted many garments but this will be my first afghan. My colors are Violet, Denim, and Gray Heather.
Does anyone know if you block an afghan the way you block garments? Do you block the squares individually or after sewn together? My local store was having a two-for-one sale on a wool yarn that is washable so I am using that instead of Satin. I knitted my first square and came up with an exact 8×8 square, so the yarn substitution should not be a problem.
Careful – the pattern calls for the final piece to be 10×8 – mine was 8×8 too but that is not the right size alas.
Thanks for pointing that out!!! I guess I just assumed the squares would be, well, square. They are definately rectangles! I started over using the next needle size up and it is now 8×10. Thanks again!
That happened to me once too, but I just kept knitting for another 2 inches, and instead of being 10″w x 8″l, it will be 8″w x 10″l. Im going to try turning the block sideways and see if I can still use it without ruining the overall pattern.
so if my stitching is too small would I go up a needle size?
Hi Ashley -
Yes, if your gauge is too tight (too many stitches per inch, stitches too small), going up a needle size will help with this.
So what needles is everyone using. Since this yarn is fairly slippery I decided on a straight crystal palace bamboo. The yarn grabs on a little better. Addis tended to be too slippery. Good luck everyone!
I am using susan bates metal needles. Have had a problem so far but i do hold my needles funny lol. And I am using the US 8. At first it was looking a little small but now it is turning out to the just right.
I tried to start today. We took a short road trip…but the road was so bumpy and the yarn so silky that it kept jumping off the needle. I have about 5 rows completed before I gave up for the day. I love the feel of the yarn and will work on it tomorrow!
I’m using my faves…Denise circulars. Finished the first piece. Had no problems with splitting yarn. It knits up like a dream. Not overly fond of the pattern however and hope the next one is more to my personal liking. Even tho I’m an experienced knitter, I’m not comfortable working from a graph, prefer the written instructions. However I have no problems with a graph when I do counted cross stitch or needlepoint. Must be a mental block of sorts.
How, weird. I was just telling my hubby that same thing tonight while I was working on the squares lol. I even when so far as to write out all of the even rows so that it is quicker at a glance to knit. hehe.
One a side note, ty to the ones who let us know how many rows makes the square 10X8. Mine has come in a little small so at least they will still be the correct size, just a smaller blanket.
I haven’t done a lot of cross stitch or needlepoint, but the ones I have, I’ve worked as I liked (top to bottom, or in color blocks).
Knitting charts must be worked backward and in reverse. I mean, you start at the bottom and work right to left, then left to right, but you don’t make the stitch that’s indicated, you have to use the “WS” stitch.
So, I’m not at all surprised that knitting charts are much more difficult to master than charts for other crafts.
Now, if I could only figure out those Japanese crochet charts….
I am like you, I like to knit from written instructions not graphs and need that graph for the cross stitch so we must share the same mental block. Can’t wait to see the end results. Happy knitting to all.
I finished my blocks for this clue. They came out very close to 10″ wide once off the needles and could easily be stretched/flattened to 10″. I found I needed to work 52 rows to get to 8″ long, I just figured that’s because the pattern is not as flat as the straight stockinette stitch used to check gauge.
I used mismatched (same size and length, different brands) aluminum needles with no problem at all.
It shouldn’t be that hard to accomodate both those who like to work with charts and those who don’t want the pattern “spoiled”. The chart could be put on a second page of the same link or there could be separate links for text instructions and charts. No need to wait longer for the chart or to have someone else open the link, print and cut the page for you.
Ok – I’m changing my name from Donna to Donna Lynne. There are two many Donna’s here. (I’m sure we are all beautiful!)
As I said, I am teaching myself to knit (very experienced crocheter), so I am asking a lot of beginner questions.
I finished my first block based on the listed gauge, but it is not to gauge. I used Boye size 8 needles. When I stretch the block, then lay it flat, it measures about 9 1/2 by 7.
When I wrap the yarn around the needle to make the stitch, I don’t leave any slack, but I don’t pull it tight either. Am I doing this wrong? Am I supposed to wrap the yarn loosely? Since I am just learning, I want to correct any bad habits now.
Am I supposed to stretch the piece after I take it off the hook, or is it supposed to already be to gauge?
I ran out last night and bought size 9 needles – just in case.
Thanks for the tip Ella’s Grammoo. I tried to get circular needles, but Hobby Lobby was having a sale and they didn’t have the right size. By the way, how on earth do I know what length to buy (on both straight and circular needles?)
Hi Donna Lynne,
I am new to knitting as well. I have been knitting for 3 years and last year I took a sock class at the local yarn store. I was half way through with my first sock and my instructor told me there is a right way and a wrong way to wrap the yarn when you are knitting. She said you need to wrap it the hard way. If you are knitting correctly you should be wrapping the yarn around your needle from the back counterclockwise. It does make a difference in how the finished project stretches. When you purl you also need to wrap the yarn in a counterclockwise direction. When you look at your columns the knit should be open and not twisted. If it is twisted you are probably not picking up the stitch from the inside. Yes I pulled out all 25 X 88 rows and started my sock over. The instructor told me not to (she didn’t want me to get discouraged) but I did not want one sock to feel like it was too tight.
I am having trouble in the turn. I know I am pulling to hard because I have a tight stitch and then a really loose stitch. I have only done projects that do not have sides (hat and socks)Dones anyone have any tips for the turn?
Thank you, AYarnFanatic. I am wrapping the yarn in the correct direction, but my gauge is off. I was just going to re-do my work with larger needles, but I think it would be better (since I am just learning) to try to get the gauge correctly with the recommended needles. When I wrap the yarn looser, the stitches aren’t “crisp.”
On another subject, I am getting pretty good at tinking!
My mother taught me to slip the first stitch as if you were going to purl that stitch.
I read somewhere that purl stitches will be bigger than knit stitches, even in machine-made knits. This was in an explanation of why stockinette rolls. I didn’t fully understand it, so I can’t remember the explanation why purls are looser. But if we accept that stockinette rolls BECAUSE purl stitches are bigger, then it’s natural in this textured stitch pattern to have stitches that look bigger. Mine are noticeably bigger throughout a piece.
I take comfort in the knowledge that the more the finished piece is used and loved and cared for (washing and drying), the more the tension will even out.
Hi Donna Lynne;
It sounds like you’re doing everything just fine. We all knit a little differently. In general I find newer knitters knit a little tightly, so it makes sense that you may need to go up a needle size. Practice makes perfect, so keep at it! Good luck!
Julia.
Too all you knitting newbies who are not getting the correct size blocks:
Do not try to change your knitting style to get the correct gauge. Your body has muscle memory, and you will revert back to what you learned. In the middle of an item, that spells disaster.
So, change needle size to get the gauge and knit as you always have.
Yes, the more you knit, the easier it becomes, and the closer to ‘optimum’ gauge you will get. But everyone has a style of their own, and a tension of their own. So, use the needles to get your work to come to the size you need.
I am a new knitter and this is my first knit along. I hope I can keep up as I am still a slow knitter. It was great to read everyones comments I felt like part of a knitting group. I have not been able to join the ladies at my local library as they meet during the day.
I am using Bernat Country Wool and size 10 bamboo needles. I am in the middle of my first square and it is coming out 10 1/2 inches wide. I plan to switch to my knitpicks metal needles as the bamboo needles are catching on the yarn. I am ok with the slightly larger size and the different yarn since I wanted the afghan to be larger and a little heavier. i am concerned that my choice may be problematic as i see the other clues.
The “knit all knit and purl all purl” directions are giving me fits! I’ve gotten halfway through this block twice and had nothing but a mess!
Am I understsnding correctly now that a stitch that was knitted on an odd row will be purled on the even row?
I’m having to write out the even numbered rows to try and keep it straight, and I’m not exactly a novice knitter. I’m going to try this block one more time, but right now, I’m not having fun with this project:(
I also wound up with half Satin yarn and half Satin sport. I wish the distinction had been made earlier when the supply list was posted.
JamieQ-
I had the same problem and ended up writing out all of the even rows as I went through the first time so that it would be less confusing. I am using straight needles (scared to death of circulars lol). So in this case, correct, a stitch that was knitted on an odd row will be purled on an even row.
2nd row: K2. [(K1. P1.) twice K6.] 4 times K2.
4rd row: K2 (K1. P1. K1. P7.) 4 times K2.
6th row: K2. (K1. P1. K7. P1.) 4 times K2.
8th row: K2. (K1. P7. K1. P1.) 4 times K2.
10th row: K2 [P6. (K1. P1.) twice] 4 times K2.
And so on. If you would like the last 5 rows let me know.
Ashley,
Thank you for posting those rows!
Can you please post the other even ones?
I’m not a new knitter, but I’m sort of new to using patterns.
I have ADD and I’m having massive problems, which is frustrating. I want to do this project and I want to learn new things, but I was ready to give up until I came on here and found your post just now.
I had hoped to have all 3 squares done by tonight, instead I’ll have to start over, again, later or tomorrow.
OOPSY – ROW 10 IS WRONG ABOVE
Here are the following rows. And sorry i must have skipped a row when typing it out.
10th row: K2 (K7. P1. K1. P1.) 4 times K2.
12th row: K2 [p6 (K1. P1) twice] 4 times K2.
14th row: K2 (K5. P1 K1. P1. K2.] 4 times K2.
16th row: K2 (P4. K1. P1. K1. P3.) 4 times K2.
18th row: K2 (K3. P1. K1. P1. K4) 4 times K2.
20th row: K2 (P2. K1. P1. K1. P5.) 4 times K2.
Thanks this really helped me since one of my colors is a dark brown and it was hard to see the stitiches from the previous row.
i am totally with you, the knit all knit and purl all purl thing is making me crazy. i, like you, wrote out the even rows for myself, it seems to be going a little better now but i’m not even half way through my 1st block yet.
I love reading all of the blogs….yes, I am having problems also. I am an experienced knitter but have torn this out too many times. I have been using bamboo circular needles but may switch…..knitting all three colors at the same time sounds great to me. I’m not too sure if I like this yarn as the thickness of the yarn isn’t consistent. Should I be pulling from the center or outside?
Hi Jaime -
You’re correct that ‘knit all knit stitches and purl all purl stitches’ means that a stitch that is knitted on the Right side, will be purled on the wrong side.
Think about it like stockinette stitch – where you do all knitting on one side, and all purling on the other side, and end up with a nice flat fabric. You’ll be trying to get this effect on a smaller scale, so if it’s a knit on one side, it’s a purl on the other.
Another way to think about it is if the stitch in front of you is a ‘V’, knit it; if it’s a bump, purl it. You’ll eventually get the hang of recognizing which is which.
You should be pulling from the inside of the ball. Worsted yarn will unravel if you pull it from the outside.
Dear Ashley, THANK YOU SO MUCH – these instructions are just what I needed. This is the way my knitting brain works.
You’re welcome, Donna Lynne! The lenght of needles should be guided by what you’re going to knit. Shorter needles for smaller projects, etc. I inherited my grandmother’s needles when she passed away in 1981, so I have a pretty full supply of straight needles. If I’m making a sweater I’ll probably use a longer needle for the sleeves, as I knit them both at once, to insure that they come out the same lenghth! An afghan or sweater back would work best on longer needles, whether straight or circular. As to another of your questions, acrylic yarns are what they are. You can block wools and stretch or shrink them a bit, but acrylic will bounce back to shape after it’s been washed.
Thanks, Ella’s Grammoo. I am re-doing my block loosely and, so far, I think it is coming out more to gauge. But, not all my stitches look “crisp.” Some of them look so loose that they almost look like holes. Can this be fixed or do I need to start over?
Hi Donna Lynne;
“Crisp” stitches and even tension just come with practice. A lot of it will literally come out in the wash! Blocking will help – We will talk a little more about ‘blocking’ knitting in the future. If the look really bothers you, by all means start over, but don’t feel you need to!
Julia.
Hi,
I haven’t started yet but have read all you comments. Hopefully that will make it easier when I do start. I promised myself that I would finish the sleeves on my grandson’s sweater, before I started another project. I have way too many projets. LOL.
Am I correct in assuming that we make three blocks, one in each color? In glancing over the pattern I wasn’t sure. Was also babysitting a 3 & 6 year old at the time, so wasn’t playing perfect attention.
Tnanks for any help and support. I think this is going to be soooo much fun.
Nancy
AKA Gmanancy
Hi Nancy;
Yup, you’re right – three blocks one in each color.
Julia.
Gauge is actually important in this project because you will need all of the squares to be the same width and height. Otherwise, the blanket will be misshapen. Some have mentioned that the square will stretch to the right size, but remember that this is acrylic, not wool, so it doesn’t block like wool.
If all the squares were the same pattern, all the squares would end up the same width, regardless of gauge. I am anticipating that some of the future squares will have cables and bobbles. The pattern developer will have factored this into the gauge in stockinette.
Regarding the charts, for those who don’t want to use them, have a friend print the pattern and then cut off the chart. That way, you won’t have the pattern revealed and those who want to learn to read charts have that opportunity as well.
Happy swatching!
I have completed 22 rows of my first square. Venting — I am developing a resentment towards both the written instructions and the graph. It’s like trying to learn the “secret language” of a secret club. Why are knitting instructions witten this way? I am a basic-skilled knitter. I don’t feel that I should have to decipher and re-write directions while at the same time I am trying to watch my tension, count stitches, etc.? I’m certainly going to remember this aggravation the next time I decide to pick up a knitting project. Sorry for venting … I just had to get this off my chest!
Hi, Swanee,
About your vent!
When I think about the possible alternatives to the “secret language of a secret club”, the only thing I can think about is the possibility of having someone standing over you saying “OK, now knit a stitch, now knit another stitch, now put the yarn to the front between the needles and purl a stitch, leave the yarn in front and purl another one, ….” and so on.
The shorthand is there to minimize the wordiness, as well as to help people detect the rhythm of the pattern. For example, every time I started an odd-numbered row, my mind went “where is the nearest bunch of 7 stitches that are the same – I have to make the opposite type of stitches there but moved one stitch to the left”. Now, that phrase is totally understandable to me, because I invented it. But I’m willing to wager that even the experienced knitters would find that phrase fairly useless.
So, my question to you is: what would you prefer to have in the knitting instructions? What would make the instructions speak to you?
I’m definitely curious, because I teach Knitting Pattern Reading, and if I know where someone might be coming from, perhaps I can help them better.
Thanks
Judy
Hi Judy,
I know I’m a beginning knitter, and that with experience, I will learn to read Knitter’s Shorthand.
But, having to gain experience is painful and takes a lot of the “fun” out of knitting. Now that I have my homemade chart that I can understand, I am having fun! Yay! It was just aggravating to have to re-write the instructions to make them understandable to me.
I’m a teacher of beadweaving, so I am used to writing instructions. Below is how I would rewrite Row 1 if I were writing for my students.
The written instructions read:
1st row: K2. [P6.(K1.P1)twice] 4 times. K2
I would write:
1st row: K2. (P6.K1.P1.K1.P1) 4 times. K2
I prefer graphs to read left to right for all rows and using the same symbols throughout.
Also, I am lefthanded, so I never know if my difficulty with instructions is related to that or just to me in general.
Hi, Swanee,
Thanks for the clarification.
You mentioned that you are left-handed. Does this mean that you put the needle that’s getting the new stitches in your left hand? If that is the case, then you would probably want to either mirror-image the chart and follow the given instructions OR ignore the written instructions and just follow the chart as drawn, reading from left to right.
The verbiage and the chart fit for those who are putting the new stitches onto the right-hand needle. In that case, it is easiest to read the chart from right-to-left, because that is how the stitches are worked.
The other thing about charts is that they usually (but not always) show how the fabric looks from the right side (which is why the explanation says that the symbols mean something different for the wrong side rows). This same chart could be used for making socks or a hat or some other tubular project using circular or double-pointed needles, in which case there are no wrong-side rows.
I do agree with you about the repeats within repeats in the written instructions. For a short snippet like the “(K1, P1) twice”, I would have written it out as K1, P1, K1, P1. It’s shorter and clearer, in my humble opinion!
Judy
Hi Judy,
Thank you for responding to my comments. You have been really helpful. You are correct that I pass my new stitches onto the left needle. I attempted once to try knitting righthanded, but it was a disaster.
When I made up my chart, I used the written instructions and filled in my chart as I completed the stitches. The chart in the instructions just really messed with me, and I couldn’t use it. I naturally want to go left to right, and I never thought about the chart being “righthanded” … the way the new stitches pass onto the right needle for a righthanded knitter.
Are you ready for a really uneducated beginner question about the chart? This is for clarification in case I decide to try knitting from a chart.
Here goes … Is every row read right to left or do you switch at row 2 and read left to right and then for row 3 read right to left again? Okay, you can get up off the floor now because I know you’re down there laughing! 
Hi again, Swanee,
Usually a chart will have a number on each row (or each alternate row) identifying both which row it is AND that that is where to start reading the chart.
On the chart for this block, there are only numbers identifying the odd-numbered rows. When I draw a chart, I put the even-numbered row numbers on the opposite side.
So, as to what it means to you as a left-handed knitter:
First, when you read the Row 1 Instruction, you will be reading from left to right.
Second, when you read the chart for Row 1, you will be reading from right to left. And for Row 2, you will be reading from left to right, AND switching the meaning of the symbols.
Third, when you are knitting, your stitches will be formed from left to right.
Thus, as a left-handed knitter, the instructions most closely match your knitting.
And even if you made a mirror-image copy of the chart so that Row 1 matches the way you knit, you would still be reading the other direction and switching the symbols on the second row.
And everyone, whether a left-handed or right-handed knitter, has an opportunity to get confused on every other row of a chart.
Clear as mud, right!!
Judy
Yup!
Actually my lefthanded brain followed along quite well with what you wrote. Thanks again Judy … you’re the best!
Judy and Swanee;
Thanks Judy for fielding questions! Swanee – I know learning to read knitting patterns is REALLY frustrating! Everyone learns and interprets things their own way. It will make sense in time – like learning a foreign language! Your right-needle-to-left technique will make things a little more difficult, but hang in there! We will definitely have a chart reading tutorial in the future. Good luck!
Julia.
My sister and I are doing the KAL together. I live in Oregon, and she lives in California. I am a more experienced knitter, and was able to give her some tips (write out the even row directions, or even all of the row directions on index cards. Watch the even rows because sometimes the knit stitches look like they might be purl stitches….etc).
I am a loose knitter, and did knit half a swatch, which looked pretty close to what I needed. When I finished the first block, it was only 8.5 wide by 8 long. I think the pattern must make the width shorter since the swatch was in st st.
I really enjoy working with this Satin yarn. It’s very soft, and should make a really cozy afghan.
Hey Joyce….Keep up the good work!! You’re doing great!!
thanks big sis,
Writing out the rows was a very big help for me. I’m almost done with the first block. 8 more rows to go. I do think that my will be short too. I’m very excited about doing this KAL.
Joyce in California
ok, here goes. i just started knitting about three months ago and would like to do this KAL. having problems, when i cast on my stitches i cannot distinguish between the RS and WS.
is there a cast on that would let me see the difference so that when i am finished with row 1 i can knit all knits and purl all purls?
Hi, BrownEyeGurl35,
In my experience, it doesn’t matter what kind of cast-on you do. What matters is that first row. When you flip the needles over to start the next row, you will see that wherever you did a K on the first row, there is a bump facing you. And wherever you did a P on the first row, there is a Vee facing you. Or you might call it a non-bump.
But the most important thing is that if there is a bump facing you on the next stitch on the left-hand needle, we say that it “looks like a purl”, because a purled stitch on the right-hand needle has a bump in front.
And similarly, if there is a Vee facing you on the next stitch on left-hand needle, we say that it “looks like a knit”, because a knitted stitch on the right-hand needle forms a Vee.
Where the instructions say to Knit the Knits and Purl the Purls, it is saying that IF the next stitch on the left-hand needle has a bump right next to the needle, purl it. If not, knit it.
Does this help??
Donna Lynne,
When i was first starting to knit I would have a loose stitch and then a really tight stitch in the row. My sock instructor said it was that way because I was not pushing my stitches up at a fast enough rate causing stretching. You should be taking the stitches off where the taper of the needle is not on the stick. and when you tighten the stitch on the working needle you need to be down past the taper. It seems simple but it was hard to break those habits 2 years of doing it wrong. I am a tight knitter and loose crocheter. The way I think of it is do I want this garment to breathe or not? I pull the yarn accordingly. I hope this helps.
There is a half hitch cast (Thumb method) on that makes it easier to see the first row but it takes some finess to not have too much stretching while you are working.
Youtube does not have a good video. This is the closest I could find. I do not like it because she says if you cannot remember you are a dumby. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4X9NtrGeFPk
Youtube has this instructional video that explains LONG TAIL CAST ON http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Iv03nRS8xU she does a really good job.
KNITTED CAST ON http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nJKC2xT0Q4
This is a cast on I have never tried but probably will. You use a crochet hook to cast on. it is called PROVENSIONAL CAST ON. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3J-sUx_whE
once you are past that first couple of rows knitting is easier.
Don’t be too hard on yourself; you are learning.
knittinghelp.com has amazingly easy videos to help with learning all the basics and some advanced techniques as well.
Hi BEG -
Judy’s right that your CO isn’t a big deal; that said, different cast ons look different and as you continue your knitting adventures, you can explore and discover the virtues of each method.
In the meantime, with a reversible pattern like this, I give myself a little crutch: I put a large safety pin or paperclip near the beginning of Row 1, which will show me that I’m on the right side. (I buy small and jumbo plastic-covered paperclips for stitch and row markers; cheap and hard to miss and they don’t fall out, yet they’re easy to move/remove. Score!) You could tie a bow in a contrasting yarn to show the right side, for example.
After you do several rows, you’ll see the pattern; this particular pattern is very easy to know whether to “work in pattern” (wrong side), or change the pattern (right side).
Hope this helps. Have fun!
Any other southpaws here? Since 100% of patterns are written for the right-handed knitter, how do you knit? I have taught myself to knit like a right-hander but carry my yarn in my left hand and even after many years, it takes concentration. When the pattern calls for basic stitching, like Clue #1, I will knit purely left-handed. For those who are right-handed, that means your ‘front’ is my ‘back’ and vice versa. How do you overcome this?
Hi, zinnia1. Have you tried using the Continental method of knitting instead of the English method? The Continental method is also known as the German or left-handed method.
I am plagiarizing “The Knitting Answer Book” by Margaret Radcliffe here:
The Knit Stitch
1. Hold the needle with stitches on it in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. Hold the yarn in your left hand, pulled taut behind the needle. Insert the right needle into the stitch and behind the yarn.
2. Hook the yarn with the tip of the right needle.
3. Pull the yarn back throught the stitch with a twist of the right needle.
4. Slip the original stitch off the left needle.
The Purl Stitch
1. Hold the needle with stitches on it in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. Hold the yarn in your left hand, pulled taut in front of the left needle. Insert the right-hand needle into the stitch from right to left. (Make sure the tip of it is behind the yarn stretching up to your index finger.)
2. Move your left index finger down and to the front so that the yarn is taut over the tip of the right needle.
3. Hook the yarn back through the stitch with the right needle.
4. Slip the original stitch off the left needle.
I hope this helps. This book has a lot of answers, in fact, it claims “Solutions to Every Problem You’ll Ever Face” and “Answers to Every Question You’ll Ever Ask.” I don’t know if that is true (I haven’t read much of it yet), but it has helped me so far.
I forgot to tell you – “The Knitting Answer Book” is available at some libraries!
I am also left-handed. I follow most patterns just the way they are written. I just end up with a mirror image of what the square looks like for a right-handed person.(Object will face left-not right) I wonder if there are any squares in this afghan that this would be a problem? (Ex: any words, or something like that). Lefties also have to be careful with cables and decreases. Cables – if the pattern says hold the stitches in back, hold them in front and vice versa. Decreases – K2 together and SSK usually need to be reversed to get the correct slant.
Well I am part way through my first square. So far so good. I do agree that having the chart on the bottom of the page does take away some of the mystery.
How hard would it be to have the written instructions on one page with the chart on a second. That way we could download the whole PDF and only print off which ever page we want to work from. This way we could still have both for a later date.
One question. In this clue we make a square in all three colours. Will this be the same for all the clues. If that is the case I just might cast on all three squares at the same time. Unless of course I decided to make this a travel project. Guess that will depend on the answer to my question.
Can’t wait for the next clue. I will be needing knitting breaks in the next month, doing this KAL will the perfect thing.
Hey there fellow knitters, I have a question, I knitted a scarf for my step daughter, and it was k1,yo,k5, slp1, k2tog, psso, k5,yo, k1, and you get a nice jagged edge as you knit along, but when it came to knitting off, I wind up with a straight edge instead of the jagged edge, I would have really preffered it to be jagged on both ends but it just wont’ work, any ideas??
Maybe there’s some EZ “stroke of genius” way to do this, but I don’t know it.
I like feather and fan, which also has a scallop on the cast on edge. The only way I can figure to get scallops on both ends of the scarf is to make two ends and connect them when the desired length is reached.
I like to graft (basically, zigzag to connect the live stitches together), but you may like Kitchener stitch or knit together cast off. There are video tutorials on YouTube for all these. There are probably lots of other ways to connect two pieces, but these are the techniques I know.
Hope this helps.
Hey thanks,physhstyx, but I have done this and you get the feather and fan going in the opposite direction and it just doesn’t look right, I am very particular when I knit, I am always checking my work, if I find any kind of a mistake I take it apart,thanks though
ok quick question, for row 20 do we do it “as 2nd row” like the directions state which would be K2 [(k1. p1.)twice K6.] 4 times k2? or do we do it like the graph shows? K2 (P2.K1.P1.K1.P5.) 4times K2? or am i just really that confused??
Hi Jodi -
When it says ‘as 2nd row’ for row 20, it’s referring to the direction for that row to Knitting the Knit stitches and Purling the Purl stitches. The actual pattern will be different than it was in row 2. You’ll want to follow the chart, and follow what your knitting ‘says’.
Hi Jody -
Suggest you either work from the written instructions OR work from the chart.
The written instructions for Row 2 say to work garter stitch border, and to work each stitch as it presents itself in the body of the block.
The chart does match the instruction to work in pattern.
Your confusion seems to arise from applying the written out instruction for Row 20 to the chart’s Row 2, not the written out Row 2.
Hi Jodi -
Your confusion seems to arise from reading the written instruction for Row 20, but incorrectly referring to Row 2 of the chart. The written Row 20 refers to the written Row 2.
The written instruction for Row 2 says to work the garter stitch border and to work each stitch as it presents itself (a.k.a., “work in pattern”). You can see that is what the chart depicts.
Since you seem fluent in chart reading, I suggest you work from the chart and, if you want, double check by counting the stitches from the written instructions. Or vice versa, but just don’t try to do both at the same time.
Hope this helps.
I just started last night after a trip to finally buy my yarn. Michaels was almost sold out of the yarn and JoAnns doesnt carry it. I ended with three shades of light brown or tan. i think it will work. I couldn’t really be choosey as I wanted to get started. I got about 15 rows done last night then quit because my husband was driving me crazy asking questions. Not sure if my pattern is working or not but I had a hard time with the knit the knits and purl the purls also. I hope I got it figured out because when I have to start ripping out I get really frustrated. Best of luck to everyone. I tried to write the directions for even numbered rows but that was even more confusing, so I’m so glad someone else did it. If my doesn’t look right in the end I will use them!!
Hi Shirley -
Just curious: is DH also KAL-ing? or is he kibbitzing?
The former might be great fun, or at least entertaining; but the latter is unmitigated aggravation!
he was just trying to drive me crazy and counting out odd numbers as I was trying to knit to mess me up[. He finds some sick sense of humor in it!!
Shirley – OMG that’s so funny. My son started out counting with me, but then he got bored and was rattling off random numbers thinking it was funny. Good thing he was in the 100′s and i was at 22 lol.
Anyways, I have started over with bigger needles to get the correct size blocks. I was going to just leave it as is, but then I did the calculations and my blanket would have been 8 inches shorter and 8 inches skinnier as my blocks measure 8 x 6 with the US 8 needles. So here we go again.
Also I wanted to thank and praise whoever it was that mentioned to use a crochet needle for casting off. OMG that was so fast. I have always hating casting off but that way was such a breeze.
And thanks to the person who mentioned knitting all of the squares at the same time so they all match in tension. At first I thought it was going to be difficult as i get sidetracked easily, however, they are all coming along pretty nicely and I won’t have to repeat the pattern a bagillion more times to do them all separately. Woohoo. I might actually have them done by the time the second clue comes out.
I’ve finished my first block. I used the chart rather than the written instructions. I’ve done a fair amount of fairisle work in the past so chart is much easier to follow for me especially when watching tv. Being a Cdn Gal I have a large stash of Cdn and British knitting needles. Had to switch up needle size to Aero (England) 5-1/2mm to knit up a perfect 10″ x 8″ square. I’m finding the Bernat Satin very nice to work with, no splitting or shedding.
I started on my first block and even though my guage swatch came out correct, my block is only 8 inches wide. The stiches seem loose though. I’m using size US8. In my experience acrylic yarn doesn’t block well. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. Any suggestions?
It’s very soft yarn. I crocheted a sweater with this yarn a couple years ago and it came out great. Knitting with this yarn is new to me. It looks really nice so far.
I had to go up to a size 10 1/2 needle to get the width of 10 inches. I didn’t bother with the swatch but just did about the first 20 rows of the pattern with the size 8 needle and measured that. It was only a little under 9 inches. So I ripped out and switched to the 10 1/2 and it is coming out 10 inches now. My stitching does appear pretty loose but at least all my blocks will be the right size!
My guage swatch also came out perfect on 8.5mm neeedles and the afghan block seemed to be too narrow the first time I measured it at about 4 inchces long, but now that it is about 6 inches long it is measuring perfectly at 10 inches. Wait until you are done to measure and hopefully you will get better results. Being on the needles can stretch or scrunch the fabric causing inaccuracies when measuring width.
Bad me – didn’t swatch before I began and after 6 rows decided it was much too loose for an afghan square on my 5 mm needles. They are bamboo (for comfort) so maybe that makes me knit too loose. Going to get some 4.5 today so I can make a swatch this time and see how it looks.
Thank you for including a chart because I find it too confusing when you say knit the knits and purl the purls
Hi everyone,
I have finished my first piece and am halfway through the second colour. I am using a substitute yarm that happened to be in my stash, because Bernat yarn is almost impossible to buy here Down Under. My finished piece is 8″ x 9″ so my afghan will not be the correct size. If the other patterns all turn out to be the same size I am hoping I won’t have any problems but I tell myself that as I am a fast knitter, I can soon catch up if I have to start over but will have to wait until I have knitted the 2nd clue piece before I can compare ‘squares’.
I have never knitted an afghan before so am really looking forward to this KAL.
I was so excited to get started. I checked out the first clue. Thank you so much for posting directions on making a gauge swatch. I have never made one before and really want my afghan to turn out perfect. Good thing I did. My first swatch with the size 8 needles didn’t even come out to be 4 inches wide!!! I am making a new swatch with larger needles.
Ref the gauge:
If 18 sts = 4″ in stocking stitch, then 45 sts would equal 10″ in stocking stitch.
But this isn’t stocking stitch. In fact, it has a bit of width-wise compression due to all those little K1P1 riblets.
And we’re only casting on 44 stitches.
So I don’t see how we can get a 10″ wide piece at all.
Yes, we can use bigger needles, but that would change the character of the block. And those needles wouldn’t give us the specified gauge for a stocking stitch swatch.
In my humble opinion.
Judy! You have made me feel much better!
I teach crochet, so I know about gauge, tension, etc. I am learning to knit from books and haven’t been able to find anything about the proper tension in knitting. I know to slip the stitch onto the shaft of the needle (not just the tip), but there is nothing about PROPER gauge. I am using the same tension I use in crochet – not tight (so as not to stretch the yarn) and not loose – just the natural lay of the yarn around the needle.
Am I doing this correctly?
If my knitting is not to the specified gauge this time, will the other blocks be the same size as these first ones if I knit consistently?
In your humble opinion.
I teach both beginner knitting and beginner crochet. The thing that I emphasize in both classes is that the stitch on the hook or on the new needle must look like an upside-down raindrop when you look at it from the end of the needle or nook.
Specifically, there has to be a little bit of space in the stitch below the needle. But not too much!
That being said, I tend to crochet tightly, but I usually knit right on gauge. So I always swatch for crochet, but never for knitting. (And yes, some times I should have!)
Well, actually, I will do a knitting swatch if I’m in design mode (making a garment in a size not covered by the pattern, or using different yarn than the pattern specifies, for example).
Judy
Ref: pulling the yarn out of the middle or working from the outside.
I am one of those who prefers pulling the yarn out of the middle. I can’t stand it when my ball of yarn rolls all over the floor otherwise.
I realize that there are those who reside in the opposite camp, usually because they can’t find that end in the middle and/or because they don’t like it when the ball turns into a wimpy mess near the end.
I don’t want to get into a pros/cons debate on this (because I think I have stated them both in an unbiased manner).
My question to the rest of you, though, is whether or not you have been able to retrieve the end from the middle of the Bernat Satin? On the two balls that I have tried thus far, I was completely unable to (without hauling out a huge blob), so I had to revert to working from the outside (and chasing the ball all over the living room). I also had trouble when I was incorrectly using the Bernat Satin Sport.
So what is it with this yarn???
Thanks
Judy
Judy, I had the same problem pulling from the center. A big blob came out, but I managed through it and it’s working fine now.
I got a big blob at first but also worked through it and now seems to be doing fine. I can’t stand pulling from the outside either. I also end up with more knots that way!!
If a new skein “vomits”, I wind a butterfly (figure 8s wound over thumb and pinkie) until it’s a good size, but still small enough to stuff back into the skein. Repeat until there’s only what I need to cast on.
NOTE: be sure to stuff back into the skein so the butterfly will unwind in the ball (the loose end must feed outward).
Only takes a little time and yet another opportunity to play with my fibers, heh heh heh.
Well, after an aggravating start yesterday, I made up my own chart using my spreadsheet software. It is working for me much better, because I was having great difficulty switching symbols in my mind’s eye when moving from WS and RS. The symbols on my homemade chart are the same regardless of the row. Quite a few people have noted that the chart as given to us looks just like the pattern and spoils the “mystery”. My chart doesn’t look like the pattern, and it would be nice if Bernat would use this style chart for the KAL to retain the “mystery”.
Hi again, Swanee,
Your suggestion that Bernat use your style of chart would be bucking centuries of tradition and standards!
Even in cross-stitch, the mechanics of making a stitch are slightly different depending on whether you are working a section from left-to-right versus right-to-left.
The fact that the chart provides some visual guidance as to what the end product will look like is very useful. And, as mentioned above, it also works when doing tubular knitting.
And the chart as shown can also be applied to more than one technique. For example, the blanks could be the main colour, and the dashes could be a constrasting colour, with the fabric being stocking stitch OR garter stitch or something else. The chart could be used for cross-stitch. Or for colour-work in crochet. Or for bead-stitch in crochet. But in all cases, what you see is what you get, and the reverse rows are read in the reverse direction, with the appropriate changes to accommodate working on the wrong side.
Judy
Just wanted to say thank you to Bernat for the great idea of having knit/crochet-alongs. It was so nice reading all the comments…everyone is so excited about this afghan! I’ve got a lot on my plate right now so I’m not sure I’ll be starting the afghan anytime soon but I plan on printing out all of the clues for the future. Just finished a baby kimono and booties in Bernat Satin in ‘Banana’. The yarn was very nice to work with and the color is so soft and pretty, a lovely, pale yellow. Good luck, everyone, and have fun!
Hi everyone! I’m very excited about this project. I’ve made a crochetted sampler afghan before and really enjoyed the variety. So, knitting “squares” is a first for me. I’m hoping it will be like doing a dishcloth. I’ve never bought specific yarn for any specific project, I just buy what I like when I see it, or ‘inherit’ from family + friends. I substituted antique rose + sage for the banana + camel. The yarn was on sale — 2 for 1! How great is that?! I think I’ll do another at the same time with yarn from my ‘stash’. My husband will be very happy to see me using it. He asked me if I ‘really needed to buy MORE wool’ when I came home with the Satin….he’s happy to see me create something…even when it isn’t for him.
Happy Knitting everyone!
L.
I printed the first clue Friday but didn’t have much knitting time until tonight. Now I am about 3/4 finished with the first block and things are working out to gauge. I have been knitting a long time and like having the chart because it will make it easier and more visual to add the pattern to my library for use in other projects such as Warm Up America squares too. I am looking forward to more clues.
this is so much fun I have never partisipated in any kind of kal! I’ve always wanted to but I could never find any. I agree with the others that it would be great if the chart could be put on another page, but all the same its really fun
I’m coming towards the end of knitting my first block and I’ve got a question about casting off. Which method should I use? And should I cast off in pattern to retain the zigzag or does it not matter?
Also, does anyone know if I’m going to have a problem knitting a 10″ block with a 9″ needle?? In order to gauge correctly, I have to use my US 9 needles, but they’re a full inch shorter than the width of the project so I have to scrunch it up.
Barbara, I’m using 9″ needles, and not having a problem with the scrunch.
I was wondering about the cast off too. The instructions say to end with a WS row and then it says to cast off. Hopefully, someone who’s finished a square will tell us how they cast off.
I find if I use a crochet hook of similar size to cast off, I get a much nicer finish when putting one stitch over the other. I cast off in the pattern also. How bout everyone else.
I casted off in the pattern and it looked fine.
I am not sure when you ask about needle size if you are referring to the lenght of the needle or the size of the needle. If you mean the length of the needle it is hard to see the stitches if they are all bunched up I w2ould use a longer needle. If you mean the size of the needle is US9 giving use the right guage to make a 10″ long block.
I hope this is a little helpful as I often have trouble with my guage. I am a very tight knitter and often have to go up a neegle size.
Barbara and all:
Your bind off in this case is not terribly crucial as the edge of you block will be sewn to another block. Binding off is a good idea in general, but don’t sweat it.
As for needle length, it’s perfectly fine to use needles shorter than your finished project as long as your stitches aren’t so crowded that they fall off the end of the needle! For the most part it’s just personal preference.
Good luck everyone!
Julia.
Well, do I feel stupid! I had been using the wrong size needles. I’ve done this before buying the wrong needle, getting MM and US mixed up. Yes, I am having a hard time finding the end in the center of the Bernat yarn. I have had to resort to using the outside end and then try and keep it from rolling all over the place. I try to make a “little nest” in my knitting bag so it won’t roll far. I’ve also switched from bamboo to the Denise circulars. Think I might have a burr on one of the needles……..yarn is splitting.
If you go to Youtube they have a great video of finding the starting strand in the center.
Shandeh, one of the Bernat Bloggers, posted a great video showing how to start from the center of a center-pull ball of yarn:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC3uESjGB8Y
Sorry, folks, but the concept of having to pull out a blob from the center is less than desirable. If I have to pull a blob, then I usually end up wrapping that end around the ball, which (at least until I finish knitting the blob), is just as bad as working from the outside of the ball.
Some of the yarn that I bought years ago actually had the inside end sticking out a little bit from the center, so that there was no searching. And no blob!
Judy
Hey, DianeH. Have you tried putting your ball of yarn in a zip-lock bag? You seal it up, then cut a small hole in one corner of the bottom and thread your yarn out of that. It keeps the ball from rolling if you drop it, and keeps your yarn clean.
What a great idea Donna Lynne. I couldn’t find the center end on any of the 3 colours I tried, so had to knit from the outside of the ball. Played catch me if you can with my ball of yarn the whole time. My cat certainly loved it though.
Just finished my third block and am excited to see the next clue. I used size 8 bamboo circular needles, knit the pattern two and one half times (50 rows)to get my 10×8 inch block. For those have trouble with “right side, wrong side” of work, mark the right side with a piece of contrast color yarn. I have no problem seeing the chart, the “mystery” is not knowing what the finished afghan will look like!
I love the idea of this project. I have finished my first square but will knit all three squares on circular needles for week 2. How many squares will we end up with at the end of the project?
Robin, I’m with you…all 3 pieces will be knit on circulars for the rest of the KAL. Wish I’d thought of it sooner, as I didn’t much enjoy this first pattern, and doing them all at once might have seemed like doing it just once instead of 3 times. (I’m very good at denial, if you haven’t guessed!)
being a newish knitter and not knowing much about circular needles at all. can you explain to me how would you work this doing all 3 at 1 time on the circulars? i am very interested in that….i keep thinking they would get all tangled?? no?? do you just cast on each color separately and then work your way across? if someone could make a video of that it would be great!! just really curious.
Well I was hoping to get started last Friday, but I ended up getting sick. So I am hoping to get started in the next few days. At least I will have lots of helpful hints!
When you are talking about 10×8, does that mean 10″ wide or 10″ tall? I assume it is wide as the instructions state to continue for 8 inches…mine ended up 8×8.(Do I need to redo?) I was about 2.5 times thru the pattern to end up @ 8 inches. Thanks for the help, I’m new and confused.
Hi Kayro;
Your block should be 10 inches wide and 8 inches tall. Your tension may be too tight and you may need to try again on a larger size needle. Did you check your gauge?
Julia.
I got started on my first block yesterday. I had to change to 5.5 mm needles and the tension is much better. The yarn feels so soft, and its easy to knit with. I will be posting my progress on my blog so that should help me keep up to date.
Hey, I have a random question and didn’t know where to put it. As I don’t know anyone that knits or crochets where I live, I am the only one hehe.
I am going to be making my grandma a blanket for christmas and I found a pillow pattern that would like very nice with it. They call for different types of Bernat yarn but are both considered Bulky 5. However one requires one needle size smaller than the other. Would that make a difference as to how it came out if I used the smaller needle to match the yarn as I want the pillow to match the blanket.
Thanks for the tips. You guys are awesome!!
IMHO, you are the knitter: Make any darn modification you want! As long as the result pleases you and/or the recipient, who cares what the pattern said?
But maybe you want the same result as the designer. It’s kind of hard to say without more details.
Why are the suggested needles different sizes?
1. The yarns have different WIP {“wraps per inch” or thickness)
“Weight” designations are not standardized, and the larger categories are especially vague and broad. For example, one company’s “bulky” yarns have suggested gauge from 12 st/4″ to 3 st/4″ (yes, that is 3/4 of a stitch to the inch). Always, to get the same look and final size as the designer’s intention, you need to work the same GAUGE (assuming you’re using the suggested yarn).
2. Maybe the yarns are the same thickness, but the pillow is supposed to be lacier than the blanket, or vice versa?
Either way, if you use the same needles for both, you won’t get the intended result.
One solution might be to choose one yarn for both projects. I’m guessing the “altered” project won’t work up in the suggested gauge. So, I’d make a big swatch (at least 10″ square in pattern stitch) and modify the number of cast on stitches to get the desired final size.
Remember: If the final piece ends up a little small, you can knit a border to bring it up to size.
One easy border for a blanket is Quaker rib (2 rows stockinetter, 2 rows reverse stockinette) for at least double the outside edge; sew on as a ruffle.
Also, if the pillow is a little too small, you can usually cram the pillow form into the cover; it’ll just be firmer.
Hope this helps.
My biggest problem has been deciding what colors I want to use! I think I have finally decided on 3 to match my living room. I am good at knitting but terrible and making up my mind and narrowing down my color combo choices. LOL I need to get busy and start so I will be ready for the next clue!
)
I find color coding my chart works great. I chose pink for purl and green for knit and just colored in those squares. It makes it so much easier. No thinking about right and wrong side, I just know pink is purl and knit is green!
More re the gauge.
As I indicated earlier, I inadvertently made my first square in Bernat Satin Sport, and got an 8×8″ square as the result. Then I learned to my horror/shock/chagrin that I had blown it, and I got the correct yarn, Bernat Satin.
When all is said and done, my square out of Bernat Satin (plain) is only 1/2″ wider than my square out of Bernat Satin Sport.
I still think that the width-wise compression of those K1P1 riblets is more significant that one might expect.
Of course, I can easily stretch it to make a 10″ wide piece, but its natural tendency is to be only 8 1/2″ wide.
Judy
So, did you use size 8 needles to get that width? and if so, are you going to increase needle size or leave your square 8 x 8.5? That is how my square turned out too, and I don’t know if I should redo it with larger needles.
I am going to redo mine. The one I did came out pretty small and I’m worried the blanket won’t be big enough for my mom when it’s finish. I am swatching with US 10 needles now as I have them on hand. If that is too big then I will consider a larger blanket or going out to find US 9 needles.
Re: my block is only 8.5″ wide.
I am not going to redo it. I am using the specified needles. Depending on what’s around it in the final afghan, the surrounding blocks may stretch it appropriately – or may not! Time will tell.
I am, however, going to make a swatch using stocking stitch, not for gauge-checking purposes, but to show my students how a pattern stitch can cause the fabric to behave differently.
When I look at my block, the hand of the fabric is quite pleasant – to go to larger needles just to force it to be wider will totally change the hand.
Judy
Hi Judy;
If you used the same needles for the Satin Sport and regular Satin, it makes sense that the blocks aren’t hugely different in size. I bet the one knit with Sport is a lot airier, right? It’s true that different stitch patterns really effect the finished dimensions of your knitting though you may still need to go up a needle size. Good luck!
Julia.
A simple way to keep track of your rows is to get a row counter that you put on the needle and count the rows as you knit! This is the way I have always kept track of rows. There are many different and inexpensive types of row counters at knitting supply stores. You usually find them in the same area as the needles etc.
I have another suggestion that might help some of ya’ll, it helped me a bunch! I got 20 index cards and I wrote each row on one of the index cards, I punched a whole in the upper left corner and tied them all together with some scrap yarn. As I’m knitting I flip to the next card every time I complete a row, I use a hair tie around it so that if I need to sick it in my pocket on the go, I don’t loose my place, it also helps to write big, less strain on the eyes = more knitting time. Well I hope that helps
That’s a great tip. Thanks!
“I hope this is a Helpful Hint” for folks using circular needles.
I always make identical pieces at the same time (front & back, sleeves, socks, modular pieces like this afghan).
Reasons:
When I’m “in the zone”, my gauge tightens. So, if I’m having difficult periods, my pieces are affected the same way.
Customizing; (not relevant to the KAL) if I tailor a piece, I don’t have to note or remember what I did on the other piece(s).
If there’s a pattern to learn, the more repetition, the steeper the learning curve; and you don’t have to “re-learn” on subsequent pieces.
Terminal “secondsockitis”: I’ve never finished a second sock when made separately. (On the up side, sock yarn does make adorable baby hats and tshirts, even when retrieved from the frog pond.)
Just my 2 cents; hope this helps.
Phishstyx, I know what you mean I just completed my last block and it does not have the same guage as the other two. I am usually a realy tight knitter but this block is loose and ended up with less rows. The pattern got a little boreing and I started losing track of the rows so I had to pull it out several times. I always use circular needles si I will try to work the next clue together on the same needle. i am doing it over the last block and hope for a better result.
Thanks for the idea
I’m so glad I’m not the only one. I got through the first two blocks without tearing it once and on the third I have missed stitches or goofed up and had to go back numerous times and I’m not even halfway through it. I think my mind is just tired of counting to seven!!
Well, folks, I’ve actually enjoyed knitting this, despite the little challenges (like buying the wrong yarn!).
And I have REALLY enjoyed reading the posts – I have learned a lot from them, both for myself AND to help me teach beginner knitters just a bit better.
So I would like to give a huuuuge vote of thanks to Julia and Bernat for organizing this KnitAlong.
I’m looking forward to the rest of the blocks.
Thanks a bunch
Judy
OK. Finally had time to swatch with the US 10 needles. And it came out perfectly. And here I always thought my knitting was kinda loose, apparently it’s severely tight. Although I did lossen up and bit with the bigger needles. Now I’m ready to conquer these squares as I have to redo one of them.
Hi Judy;
I’m so touched! I’m so sorry you got the wrong yarn. I suppose we should have been more clear. I guess we’re all learning. You knitters are the best!
Julia.
Can someone explain blocking this afghan please? My corners are curled and I am wondering how to keep that from causing scrunching. This is my first knitted afghan.
Please forgive me if this posts twice. I tried clicking on submit, and nothing happened, so canceled, and tried again. I’m an old hand at knitting, but very new at blogging!
Unlike crocheting, that usually lays quite flat without curling, knitting will curl. Mixing purl and knit stitches will stop the curling. That is why knit items are often designed with borders of garter stitch (knit every row), seed stitch (knit the purls, purl the knits), or ribbing (alternating knits and purls). Ribbing is generaly done with smaller needles, and will also provide shaping.
When we sew the blocks together, that will stabilize the edges, making them flat. When the afghan is done, the outer edge can also be stabilized, either with a knit garter or seed edge, or with a crocheted edge.
Of course, you can also block the squares. Wet a towel, wring it out, then roll it up with the squares inside, and let it sit until the squares are slightly damp, 30-60 minutes will do it. Spread out a dry towel where it can lay undisturbed (away from kids and kitties). Pat the squares on the towel until they are the measurement you want, and let dry.
Hope this helps.
THanks Anita that does help. Because this is like a rib knit I am wondering if blocking it with a wet towel will allow for the stretching I need to obtain the gauge. My square is 1/4 inch short in both directions. I will try blocking and see if it holds. If it doesn’t I will redo that square with a larger needle.
Thanks again. It is really nice to get advice from people.
I started my first square using 5mm needles which is US 8 and didn’t like the looseness of the pattern. I have restarted with 4 mm needles (I didn’t have any 4.5 on hand) and I really like the look and feel of it. When it’s finished if it ends up on the smallish side I will either make some extra blocks and make it larger that way or crochet a few rounds to make it larger. I really enjoy reading everyone’s comments and suggestions.
Could you post a picture of the block? I realize it’s a mystery but I would like to see if my block is correct.
Hi Arlene -
We’ll be posting a picture of the block next Wednesday, when we release the clue for the 2nd block. That way we won’t ruin the ‘mystery’ for anyone who gets to the clue in the meantime.
Awesome, thank you. This has been fun to do. I am almost finished. I think I may also do some in cotton for dish cloths.
I swatched in both US size 8 and 9 and got the correct guage with the 9. When I finished the block using US 9 needles it came out to be 9″ x 8″. Should I redo the block using US 10 needles or assume that if I use the same needles for every block they will turn out the same?
Hi Julie;
Your blocks should turn out approximately the same size if you use the same needles. It’s really up to you whether you want to re-knit. If you like the fabric that you have produced with the US9 needles, continue knitting with them knowing your blanket will just be a little smaller over-all.
Julia.
OK – another gauge question. If I knit consistently, will my gauge be the same on all the blocks of this throw, even if it is not to the recommended gauge?
Well, I said that wrong! I mean – Will all the blocks of this throw be the same SIZE if I knit consistently, regardless of the needle size?
Hi Donna;
In theory, your blocks should be the same size. Of course, the blocks will use different patterns, so they will probably vary slightly in size. If your first blocks turn out a good size, the rest should be fine.
I often use cotton to try out new stitch patterns. You get to see how the stitch looks, and also have a new dishcloth or washcloth!
Even though I’ve knit for years, I found this stitch pattern not easy to remember. Generally, I can look at the row before and know what I should be doing. I was in the middle of the second block when it finally clicked.
Way back when, I saw someone ask about making the afghan bigger. It seems to me that the easiest way to make it bigger is to buy additional color(s) and make more blocks with the new colors. The diagram in the blog shows the blocks assembled with the colors going diagonally – more colors would just give more diagonal stripes. Or, more colors could be assembled with the colors placed randomly.
Anita H.
I am also planning to make the afghan bigger but I am using the same colors just incresing the number of blocks. for the first clue I made six blocks two of each color. I guess i am planning more of a bed spread than a afghan
I am really enjoying hearing everyone’s ideas and I can’t waite for the next clue. As suggested before i want to knit them all at the same time on a circular needle.
Finished my first block and came out just about right to gauge. It is so soft and spongey. Mine is not loose at all. The stitches are nice and compact. Now on to the next two. Using size US 8 straight bamboo from crystal palace.
OK I’m going to start once again. After having problems reading or understanding pattern, then I got sick and could barely open my eyes for several days. Normally if I get sick, knitting helps me while I’m stuck lying around but yikes this was terrible.
Also, I need to give a lot more attention and thought to learning new things while knitting (plus paying attention and remembering to flip the numbers on my row counter)- so hopefully I can get these 3 blocks done over the weekend.
It’s been very helpful and interesting to read everyone’s comments about this project so far!
Started the first block and got interrupted but plan to pick up again on a road trip this weekend. I just read all the replies and everything looks so much clearer now. Thanks to everyone, especially Shandeh, for the videos – very helpful… and my second and third blocks will definitely be knit together. That is a great tip.
I finished 2 of the 3 blocks. It goes really fast once you get into a rhythm. I have yet to find the 3rd color I want to use at a shop near me. I’m using banana & fern & want rouge. Trying Joann’s tomorrow, so hopefully they’ll have it there. Otherwise, I’ll order it online.
duh… on the KAL…….. when I get to row 2 which is the opposite of row 19…….Do I continue with row 3??????????
Dorothy
you return to row 1 since the pattern is a repeat of rows 1 to 20
NO you go back to row 1. Keep an eye on the pattern and make sure there are not gaps.
Hi, Dorothy. The opposite of row 19 is Row 20. The instructions say to do row 20 “as 2nd row.” Row 20 is: K2, P2, K1, P1, K1, P7, K1, P1, K1, P7, K1, P1, K1, P7, K1, P1, K1, P5, K2.” Then you start over at row 1.
OK. Let me clarify. I have finished rows 19 and 20. Now, do I continue with row 1 or to row 3
You begin with Row 1 again, then work to 20 and then back to 1 again!
My gauge came out right with size 8 needles and now I am almost finished with my first block. I am not happy with it! Is it supposed to look like its going uphill? I knit by directions–not the chart–but on the chart it looks straight. Mine is going up. Looking from the side I can see that the pattern is correct–it just looks crooked. Anyone else having this problem? Also, the stitch definition is not very great–seems stretched out. I am at 10 inches across.
Maybe I will start the next color and see what happens.
Ritaroo, THe pattern in all three of my blocks looks like it is going uphill. I think it is the way the pattern knits up. Kind of cool, really – espcially when you look at the block held diagonally! I wasn’t fond of the stitich definition either so I am now using a Worsted-weight yarn and using size 6 needles. Gives great definition and a lot of relief, but blocks are 9.5″ wide, instead of 10. So I will have to knit extra blocks or put a border around the afghan to get the finished size.
The pattern measurement is 10″ wide by 8″ tall, so you are right on with a 10 inch width.
I think it is the pattern is an optical illusion and the nature of the pattern. My rectangles look like they are slanting to the right, but they are straight.
Hey Donna Lynne thank you for the tip of using a Zip-Lock baggie! Yahooo, I finished the 3rd block last night. I know I’ll keep busy with all the UFO’s I have. I have one sock done for new grandbaby due in December so will try and finish the other one before the next clue is posted.
I love reading all the comments, they have been a great help to me.
Wanted to let you know that I am in Australia and am joining the KAL. My Afghan will be for charity. Unfortuneately I was unable to get ‘Bernat’ yarn, but am using good subsitute. I hope you don’t mind. The yarn is still 100% Acrylic.
Looking forward to see all the different variations of colours and yarns.
Regards Lorelle in Australia
Hi
My afghan is for charity as well.
Shelley from Ontario Canada
finally i think i have the hang of this pattern!! i had to rewrite out the even rows move up a size on my needles, and nearly lock myself in a quiet room to get it but i am now on my 3rd block and with any luck i should be done with it by wednesday when the next clue come out. thanks to everyone for all of your great advice!! without it i think i would of bailed on this project. looking forward to the next clue!!
Finished my second block and it turned out exactly the same size as the first so that is great. On to the next block. I have to admit this is a strange pattern.
I am excited about making this afghan. This will be my first knitted afghan. I have a very large yarn stash so I hope you won’t be upset if I don’t buy the Satin yarn and use up some of my stash.
Happy knitting everyone!
OK Nonna,
I am sure that they do not mind if you use stash yarn, but…
I tried that. I had some very similar yarn in my yarn stash. I did 3 squares and from reading how soft this yarn is in the blog I had to see for myself. I went to the local yarns stores (JoAnn’s, Hobby Lobby, Michael’s, Wal-mart) none of them had the darker colors I was looking for so I drove 120 miles to Herrshner’s and found that I was in love with some of the colors I would not have picked off the internet pictures and I did not like some of the colors that I thought looked good on the internet (Rouge is a lot brighter than my taste allows for but the Wine heather mist was just perfect).
I began to knit. This yarn not only holds it shape better but the sheen makes the pattern stand out better. I had curling on the edges and I mean bad no matter how loose I cast on with the stash yarn and no curling at all with the Bernat Satin. The stash yarn had a tendency to split on the purl and the Bernat Satin holds the twist. Gaps on the turn with the stash yarn an no gaps with the Bernat Satin. The Bernat Satin stands up and the stash yarn does not spring back. Those squares already look like my 6 montth old dish rags (stretched out). My suggestion is invest in one ball and judge for yourself. You know the funny thing is I wanted to write – I guess you get what you pay for but the Bernat Satin was less expensive then the stash yarn.
NO I DO NOT WORK FOR BERNAT. I just love yarn. I must have been a cat in my previous life.
Oh, the joy that fills my heart when I get to the end of a row with the correct number of stitches!!
i know that feeling…LOL i lost count on how many times i had to go back and redo a row.
Nonna
I am also useing yarn from my stash I am using Bernat country wool (it is a wool blend)and I love the way my blocks are coming out. As a knitter you have to be happy with the yarn you choose as we all have different taste.
I am lookiing forward to the next clue
I had bought the yarn before I went on vacation. I only a very slow dial up connection, so when clue was posted I hand wrote it. I thought I was doing right, but not sure. I started with the recommended yellow yarn and the pattern does not show alot. So, when I got back I double checked with the dsl connection and saw per graph I had been doing it correct.
I stopped for now and trying to decide it I would like to do it in different colors to show the pattern more.
I am enjoying the knit a long. I have never done one before. : ) Mary
Hello everyone
I am new at knitting and this is my first KAL and i have done the gauge check with the satin and it came out right but now i have redone block one 3 times and the size of the block is not the 10×8 gauge i am doing this next one on size 10 needles hopefully it will be right . am getting really upset with this i think it might be me lol i would be very please with and ideas on this problem…
thanks to all
I feel your pain. This is my first KAL. I tested the guage and according to that I should use the size 9 needles. Didn’t come out right so I moved up to the size 10 and it came out just right. I will be using the size 10 on the next pattern. After I do the first 6 rows or so I’m going to make sure it is measuring 10″ across and make adjustments if necessary. Best of luck.
I also had to go up in needle size. The ones I used to get the correct block size was a 10 1/2. It was what I had on hand and luckily worked!!. Hopfully they work for the next blocks also. But if not I will just try a different needle size and get the right block size so they are all the same. I have learned that nothing in knitting is a guarantee except to try, try, and try again, eventually it will come out and be worth the effort in the end!!
Hi, Jackie.
I am just teaching myself to knit, and I feel your pain. I have re-made these blocks so many times I can’t count them.
I finally broke down and made a gauge swatch – my stitches were perfect on size 8 needles, but I had three too few rows. That suggests that I should use 7 needles. When I knitted the block with size 8 needles, the block was WAY too small. I finally made one with size 9 needles, and it is almost perfect (less than 1/2 inch off in width – very close in height), so I am sticking with 9′s.
Just so you know, the pattern in the block is different than the stockinette that the gauge swatch calls for. This causes the gauge to be different in the block.
I was thinking of quitting, too, but it got personal!
Hang in there, Girl! We’re all with you!
Hi Jackie;
Sorry to hear you’re having so much trouble! As long as your afghan block is close to 10″ (within about an inch) you should be okay. Sometimes the stitch pattern will effect your tension, which means when you knit a gauge swatch in stockinette, it might not reflect exactly the tension you get in your pattern. Gauge swatches help a lot, but alas, they’re not perfect. I hope it works out for you!
Julia.
Finally finished my three squares. Not sure I liked doing this pattern, but excited to see the next clue.
I have 20 more rows to go, as I did start over after finding that the blocks were just too small. However, now that I am knitting all three squares at the same time to make sure they are all the same size I am finding that as they big bigger they get extremely heavy on that long needle. Heh, so I am going to get some circulars today, hopefully I can figure out how to use them correctly and finish those squares before tomorrow.
Wish me luck
Just out of ceriosity how many rows did ya’ll end up with to get the 8 inches, mine was 60, but my block came out just a little small.
I ended up with 49 rows for my blocks, The 50th row was the last wrong side row.
I went through the pattern 2.5 times so 50 rows for me on a size 10 needle.
I got 48 rows on size 9 needles. The 49th row was a cast off row according to the pattern on row 9.
Good Heavens!! You are NOT going to believe this, but I TOTALLY forgot about this thing!!!! Today is Nov 3 already and Clue #2 will be coming out soon, and I have not EVEN gotten my yarn yet!!!! And the worst, I cannot get Bernat Yarns here!!!! I will have to try to match gauge using a different yarn, more readily available here. Thank goodness for Bernat newsletter, which I just received, and the Clue was mentioned. If it was not for that, I would never log in! Can anyone tell I am a rookie, self-taught knitter and this is my very first KAL????? From now on, I will have YAHOO Reminder give me a little nudge so I can log in and get the clues – and enjoy the comments and follow the progress of all involved! Off to the store, now. I have a lot of catching up to do!
Hi Marcia;
No worries! The clues will be there waiting for you when you’re ready!
Julia.
Julia,
I have one question…..I have tried two different size needles (8 and now 9) and my block is still not quite 10 inches wide. I am almost done with my block and I am wondering if I should still go 8 inches tall or should I proportionally go down to maybe 7.5 tall with my 9 to 9.5 inch width? If I do make the block 8″ tall and leave the width at 9 to 9.5 inches wide, will I be able to make all the remaining blocks to work with this size? Just curious before I bind off.
thanks!!!
Hi JILLfromWI;
It sounds like you’re pretty close to 10 inches wide, so I wouldn’t worry about it. This particular pattern is quite stretchy and you should be able to block your afghan pieces to size before seaming. I would suggest you knit to 8 inch length in the pattern. Hope that helps!
Julia
My three squares are long done, and it’s November 4 and I don’t see Clue #2, damn, and I wanted to start it with my morning coffee. I have to say though that I’m not sure if I like the pattern, it’s different though
I think the next clue is coming out on Friday. Today they are supposed to post a picture of how Clue 1 is supposed to look. So, we have to wait 2 more days.
I stand corrected. clue 2 is posted under the picture of Clue 1 block.
ha i just looked and clue #2 is not posted. do you know when it will be? i will look later. can’t wait…..this is my first kal and my first big project with knitting. having lots of fun….thanks bernat….
I ended up using size 10 needles and knitted 54 rows to get a 10X8 piece.
mine will be 9 1/2 by 7 1/2 when i am finished. i’m not going out to 9 inches because i want it to be the correct proportions. And i am using needles that are size 10. Went and bought those circulars that scare me so much so that it wouldn’t be so heavy on one side since i am knitting them all simultaneously to get the same tension and them all.
Dear Bernat;
Since I broke my wrist I was unable to get on the computer to follow the blog or knit the squares. I just got my cast off and am able to do limited activities now. I would like to start by trying to get caught up with the blog. Is there any way I could get a ‘digest’ version of each clues comments so I can rad them at my leisure – possibly even printing them out so I don’t have to keep using the mouse (and moving my wrist too much). This would be a great benefit for me. Also it would be a great help if once you ‘joined’ the blog you didn’t have to rejoin for each clue – I hate that I got most of the first clues comments, but missed all the others!
Hopefully,
Jan Vafa
Hi Jan -
There are a few ways you can get caught up. If you just want to see the clues themselves, on the right side of the blog there’s a section called ‘Knit-Along’ where you can download each of the clues we have released so far.
If you want to catch up with the comments you missed, you can limit the blog to just Knit-Along posts – on the right side of the blog the top section is called ‘Categories’. Select ‘Mystery Afghan Knit-Along’ and you’ll only see posts (and comments) related to the squares.
I’m afraid there’s currently no way to subscribe to comments from every post all at once. you’ll need to open each post and ‘subscribe’ if you want to get emails from that individual post.
So glad you’re able to re-join. Hope you heal quickly!
I’m all caught up since school has been out for the holidays. Anxiously awaiting the next clue! Question for all you great knitters out there…As each block is completed should they be blocked to make a consistent size? Some patterns “scrunch up” more than others!